Cas Hanwei Tinker Pearce Blunted Hand and a Half Bastard Sword - battle ready

Description

Cas Hanwei Tinker Pearce Blunted Hand and a Half Bastard Sword
by Hanwei
Item # SH2401
The Cas Hanwei Tinker Pearce Blunt Hand and a Half Bastard Sword
CAS Hanwei has commissioned Michael 'Tinker' Pearce to design a line of swords that will satisfy both the sparring and cutting needs of Western Martial Arts practitioners. Matching sharp and blunt versions of each sword in the series offer the same outstanding handling characteristics in both disciplines. The Michael 'Tinker' Pearce swords meet Tinker's exacting quality requirements and are built in much the same way as his custom pieces. Each Cas Hanwei Michael 'Tinker' Pearce Sword blade is forged from 5160 Spring Steel, Marquenched to the desired hardness of 50-53 Hrc while the tang is drawn back to the low 30s Hrc. For the Medieval models the very end of the tang is threaded to fit a 5mm allen nut recessed into the pommel which allows for dismantling of the hilt assembly for inspection, to exchange blades if needed, and for anyone wanting to easily customize their grip. Also the Sharp and Blunt blades are interchangeable on all Medieval models. The Viking Sword sharps and blunts are peened for historical authenticity and to meet the needs of collector and reenactment groups. The grips are cord wrapped and leather covered wood and tapered for a comfortable grip. Each Cas Hanwei Michael 'Tinker' Pearce Sword is supplied with a leather covered wood scabbard with metal throat and chape.
The Cas Hanwei Michael Tinker Pearce Blunt Hand and a Half Bastard Sword features a blunted Oakeshott Type XVIIIa blade with a strong central ridge and diamond profile. The tapered oval grip feels exceptional in hand while the second hand easily slides over the wheel pommel when extra leverage is required. The Cas Hanwei Michael Tinker Pearce Blunted Hand and a Half Bastard Sword is a perfect reenactment sword for sparring.
This fully functional Hand and a Half Bastard Sword, is tailored to meet the demands of reenactment and stage combat.
Overall Length: 42 3/4"
Handle Length: 9 3/8"
Blade Length: 33 3/8"
Blade Material: Blunted 5160 Marquenched Spring Steel
Sword Weight: 2 lb 10 oz
Scabbard:leather covered wood with metal throat and chape
Excellent handling and balance
Dismountable
Factory: Hanwei China
Designer: Michael Tinker Pearce
Rated: Fully Functional
Warning:
All Edged Weapons, Battle Ready or Not, May Injure, Kill
and/or Become Damaged if Used Improperly
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Sword Care Do and Don't
Sword Do's & Don'ts:
All edged weapons, battle ready or not, may injure, kill and/or become damaged if used improperly. Follow these do's and don'ts to safely enjoy your sword(s) for years to come.
Use common sense. Do not swing any edged weapon carelessly. Keep in mind that your sword, battle ready or not, is still a potential weapon that can injure or kill someone. Although we all have a "warrior" inside of us, we are not always on a battlefield. Make sure you are in an area where you can swing your weapon without hitting someone or something. Swords can also slip out of your hands. Selling your sword to pay for a lawsuit settlement is a big bummer. Be very careful and use common sense when handling your sword.
Do not bang your sword against another sword in theatrical-style duel . Do not bang your sword against any hard object to test its strength or the "sound" of the steel as it hits a hard object. No matter how tough or strong the steel is in any sword, it will nick when struck against something equally hard. In stage plays or in movies, theatrical swords with wide, thick edges are used. The edges are flat and often as much as 1/16 inches wide. Such theatrical swords are designed to take the flashy looking punishment of banging edges together. Your sword is not a theatrical sword. Your sword is a real weapon, designed so that they could fight in the manner that the originals were actually used. Since the cutting edges could easily be sharpened and were often used for slashing, parries were made with the flat of the blade (not the edges) or were simply avoided altogether. Real swords were never used for the theatrical style sword banging that movies or stage plays rely on to liven up action sequences.
Do not attempt to chop down a tree with your sword. Such an activity is guaranteed to damage your sword. Axes and machetes are well designed for this with the weight of the steel concentrated over the point of percussion. When you strike a firmly fixed object like a tree or a thick branch with a sword, a great deal of the blade projects past the object being cut, causing the blade to bend or torque. It should be pointed out that the Japanese, who believe in a lot of practice with the sword, used thick bamboo. The bamboo was resistant to a cut, but didn't have the rigidity of a tree, and so would not have damaged a valuable blade. For a Japanese warrior to cut in to a tree would have been unthinkable.